Tokyo Dining Out

Staying well fed in Japan can be an expensive proposition, but it doesn't have to be: If menu prices shock you, you can always stop at a noodle shop for a tasty and filling meal of udon (white wheat noodles), soba (buckwheat noodles) or ramen (Chinese noodles). Also, many expensive and famous restaurants have very reasonably priced lunch menus, featuring many of the same wonderful dishes they charge more for in the evenings.

Yakitori (skewered chicken) from the outdoor food stands are a must if your visit is during warm weather. Definitely try the sushi. According to locals, the quality of a sushi shop can be gauged by how crowded it is, so stay away from places that are nearly empty. Other traditional dishes are sukiyaki, shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef dipped in assorted sauces) and tempura.

Tokyo is also famous for its beer gardens—nighttime rooftop restaurants open during the summer months. Guests guzzle down beer and munch on fried snacks as the sun goes down over the city and the skyline lights up. Almost all of the department stores in Tokyo have beer gardens.

When you enter a Japanese eatery, you'll be happy to discover that the language barrier that makes Tokyo so perplexing at times is not a big problem in restaurants—many have plastic displays of menu items for you to point at, and English-language menus are increasingly common.

Restaurants are generally open 10:30 am-9:30 pm, and some close for a few hours between lunch and dinner.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than ¥2,000; $$ = ¥2,000-¥5,000; $$$ = ¥5,001-¥8,000; and $$$$ = more than ¥8,000.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Ginza Sushi Kou—This sushi restaurant has a rather intimidating appearance, but has been attracting sophisticated sushi lovers for more than 100 years. Private rooms are available. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-3-8 Ginza (Chuo-ku, near Ginza station on various lines), Tokyo. Phone 3571-1968.

Hotel De Mikuni—This is an exquisite French restaurant in a homelike setting, always serving seasonal specialties. (Closes once every two months for maintenance, so call ahead.) Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1-18 Wakaba (Shinjuku-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3351-3810.

Kakiden—Because it has been serving authentic Japanese cuisine (kaiseki) for more than 25 years, there is as much ritual to this restaurant as there is good food. The decor is elegant and quiet, tea ceremony-style. Guests sit on traditional tatami mats, but tables are available. Tatami-mat banquet rooms are available. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 9th Floor, Yasuyo Building, 3-37-11 Shinjuku (Shinjuku-ku, near Shinjuku station's south exit), Tokyo. Phone 3352-5121.

Kakiyasu—Delicious Matsuzaka beef, sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ginza 2 Chome Melsa Building, 4th Floor, 2-7-18 Ginza (Chuo-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3564-0212.

New York Grill and Bar—This new restaurant is on the top (52nd) floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel in Shinjuku. The view from every window is spectacular, especially at night. As the name suggests, the restaurant offers a selection of food that you'd find in a top New York restaurant—from grilled steaks to lobster dishes. The menu changes constantly. High ceilings and an art-deco-inspired design add drama to your meal. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (a 10-minute walk from JR Shinjuku station), Tokyo. Phone 5323-3458.

Rojack—Rojack features Asian cuisine using organic ingredients. The menu changes daily but the curries are highly recommended. Interior is colonial-style from a century ago. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-3-14 Minami-Aoyama (Minato-ku, near Omote-sando station on various lines), Tokyo. Phone 3409-6764.

Roy's—This restaurant classifies itself as Pan-Pacific, serving up "borderless hybrid cuisine". Cozy interior has lots of dark wood paneling, reminiscent of tropical eateries of old. The well-stocked bar serves many original cocktails. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Riviera Minami Aoyama Building, 1st Floor, 3-3-3 Minami-Aoyama (Minato-ku, near Gaienmai station on the Ginza line), Tokyo. Phone 5474-8181.

Serina Honten—This restaurant, which has an extravagant interior, is known for its finest quality shabu-shabu, or Quality Kobe beef steak, which is available in the basement at Mon Cher Ton Ton. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 3-12-2 Roppongi (Minato-ku, near Roppongi station on the Hibiya line), Tokyo. Phone 3402-1051.

Ten-Ichi—This is by far the best place to try tempura. A chef will deep fry the best seasonal seafood and vegetables right in front of you. International celebrities often show up when in town. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-6-5 Ginza (Chuo-ku, near Ginza station on various lines), Tokyo. Phone 3571-1272.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Asakusa Owariya—Since 1860, this place has been famous for its soba noodle soup with the huge shrimp tempura on top. Watch everybody gasp when the food is brought in! Thursday-Tuesday for lunch and dinner. $. Cash only. 1-1-3 Asakusa (Taito-ku, near Asakusa station on the Ginza line), Tokyo. Phone 3841-8780.

Hassan—This restaurant serves high-quality shabu-shabu, or Quality Kobe beef steaks, as well as sushi. Both shabu-shabu and sushi are all-you-can-eat. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 6-1-20 Roppongi (Minato-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3403-8333.

Heirokuzushi—Sit at a counter encircling the chefs and pick sushi plates from those going around on a conveyor belt. Heirokuzushi is one of the oldest and biggest chains of kaiten (round and round) restaurants. Ask at your hotel for the one nearest you. A very popular one is near the Omote-sando station on the Ginza and Hanzomon lines. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. 5-8-5 Jingumae (Shibuya-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3498-3968.

Mikawa-ya (Ginza)—Interesting French-Japanese food is served up at this restaurant, which has been in operation for more than 50 years. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 4-7-16 Ginza (Chuo-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3561-2006.

Nambantei—All kinds of kushiyaki (skewered foods) are grilled right in front of you. Decor is traditional Japanese. Sunday-Friday for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 4-5-6 Roppongi (Minato-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3402-0606.

Ninniku-Ya—A favorite for its exotic, garlic-spiced food and huge servings. Tuesday-Sunday for dinner. $$. Cash only. 1-26-12 Ebisu (Shibuya-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3446-5887.

Tonki—Great tonkatsu (big, juicy pork cutlet) is on the menu. This place is so popular you may have to wait in line a few minutes—but it's worth it. Wednesday-Monday for dinner, closed the third Monday of each month. $$. Most major credit cards. 1-1-2 Shimo Meguro (Meguro-ku), Tokyo. Phone 3491-9928.

Tsunahachi—This is a chain of reasonably priced, high-quality restaurants specializing in tempura. Call for the nearest location or ask your hotel's concierge. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Several locations, Tokyo. Phone 3352-1012.

ASIAN

Ashoka—Authentic Indian food served in a relaxing and quiet interior. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 7-9-18 Ginza (Chuo-ku). Phone 3572-2377.

Asian Table—With more than 60 dishes from all over the Far East, this place is great for tasting different foods while enjoying a breathtaking view of Tokyo Bay. Daily for lunch and dinner, though sometimes closed on weekends. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Hotel Inter-Continental Tokyo Bay, 3rd Floor, 1-16-2 Kaigan (Minato-ku). Phone 5404-2222.

Bougainvillea—A cozy, little Vietnamese restaurant, Bougainvillea's food is so good that the place is always crowded. The relatively poor service doesn't keep anyone away. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Romani Building, 2nd Floor, 2-25-9 Dogenzaka (Shibuya-ku, near Shibuya station). Phone 3496-5537.

Kihachi—Beautiful and delicious international food. They also have a Chinese menu, with delicious but small portions. Service is wonderful. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 4-18-10 Minamiaoyama (Minato-ku). Phone 3403-7477.

Vietnam Alice—Good food and large portions at reasonable prices. A small space (seats 25), the restaurant is often crowded. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Prantan Ginza, 7th Floor, 3-2-1 Ginza (Chuo-ku). Phone 5250-0801.

CONTINENTAL

Lunchan Bar and Grill—This is an American-style bistro with international cuisine. Quite popular with foreigners. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1-2-5 Shibuya (Shibuya-ku). Phone 5466-1398.

FRENCH

Tableaux—An elegant, traditional French restaurant, Tableaux has the appearance of a 19th-century parlor room. The corner bar is a perfect place to relax before or after your meal. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Sunroser Daikanyama Building, B1, 11-6 Sarugaku-cho (Shibuya-ku). Phone 5489-2201.

Taillevent Robuchon—Its sophisticated interior resembles an 18th-century French castle. Casual dining on the first floor, a formal atmosphere on the second. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ebisu Garden Place (adjacent to Ebisu station). Phone 5242-1338.

GREEK

The Aegean—Authentic Greek dining, the Aegean is the place to get moussaka in Tokyo. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Oriental Building, B1, 3-18-3 Shibuya (Shibuya-ku, near Shibuya station on the Ginza line). Phone 3407-1783.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

L'Incontro Trattoria—The menu is filled with traditional Italian dishes. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Kami Pulp Kaikan Building, B1, 3-9-11 Ginza (Chuo-ku, near Ginza station on the Ginza line). Phone 3248-4881.

Sabatini Aoyama—Italian atmosphere, great food. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Sunkuresuto Building, 2-13-5 Kitaaoyama (Minato-ku). Phone 3402-3782.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Healthy-Kan—For vegetarian and health-food fare, jog over to Healthy-Kan. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $. Cash only. Asahirokubancho Mansion, 2nd Floor, 4 Rokubancho (Chiyoda-ku). Phone 3263-4023.